AKTU Patternmaking and Construction of Kidswear and Menswear (BBFD552) Syllabus PDF – BFAD 3rd Year

Course Objectives

• To develop different variations in design from basic patterns
• To enable them to make patterns for all kind of designs for kids wear and menswear
• To enable the students to analyse, understand and incorporate design details in upper and lower garments for kids and men
• To enable them to construct and finish the garments
• To enable students to read, calculate, and communicate pattern and production data using standard spec sheet and buyer documentation terminology

Course Outcomes

• Skills to develop patterns for various designs for kids wear and menswear
• Be able to incorporate different design features
• Be able to understand the most economic layout of pattern pieces on fabric
• Be able to construct and finish these garments
• Be able to calculate ease, tolerance, and fabric consumption, and prepare a spec sheet using standard POM and sample-stage terminology as used in export house documentation

Course Content

UNIT-I: KIDSWEAR AND MENSWEAR: MEASUREMENT METHOD, STANDARD

BODY MEASUREMENT AND BASIC BLOCKS

• Measurement methods
• Standard body measurements
• Basic blocks for kids: Infants (0-2 years age), Toddlers (2-6 years age), Preteens (6-12 years age, boys and girls both)
• Basic block for men: Front and back bodice, Sleeve, Trouser block

UNIT-II: PATTERN COMMUNICATION AND SPEC LITERACY (applied to Unit-I blocks)

• Points of Measurement (POM), tolerance ranges (woven vs. knit): applied to the bodice, sleeve, and trouser blocks drafted in Unit I
• Ease allowance (wearing, design, negative): calculated on the Unit-I bodice (chest/bust), trouser block (waist/hip), and sleeve/armhole
• SA IN / SA OUT, sloper vs. block, pattern draft vs. production pattern, truing and walking a pattern: demonstrated on the Unit-I basic blocks before students move to design variations
• Notch types and their production meaning
• Fabric consumption vs. fabric requirement: formula, wastage buffer calculation, using the Unit-I block as the base pattern
• Grade rule and cardinal points:
• Tech pack, BOM, costing sheet vs. spec sheet, lead time: as document types

UNIT-III: KIDSWEAR: INFANTS (0-2 year age)

• Pattern development: Romper, Jablas
• Construction of one infant's garment

UNIT-IV: KIDSWEAR: TODDLERS (2-6 year age)

• Pattern development for boys' garments: T-shirt with raglan sleeve, Jeans
• Pattern development for girls' garments: Frocks (frock petal sleeve, frock with shoulder string, pinafore/sleeveless dress with shoulder knot, any one), Skirts (tiered, umbrella any one), Hot pants
• Construction of any one garment either for boys or girls

UNIT-V: KIDSWEAR: PRETEENS (6-12 year age)

• Pattern development for boys' garments: Knee length pants, Short Jacket
• Pattern development for girls' garments: Empire line dress with flare
• Construction of any one garment either for boys or girls

UNIT-VI: MENSWEAR: UPPER GARMENT

• Shirt: formal and casual
• Coat with lapel
• Construction of any one upper garment

UNIT-VII: MENSWEAR: LOWER GARMENT

• Trouser, Jeans
• Construction of any one lower garment Note: Unit II's spec sheet exercise (POM, tolerance, ease, SA IN/OUT) is first completed on the

Unit-I basic blocks as a graded Unit II submission. From Unit III onward, every garment submitted

must carry its own one-page spec sheet using the same terminology, applied now to the specific design variation rather than the base block.

Suggested Assignments

• Prepare a catalogue of swatches of various types of fabrics suitable for kids and menswear
• Market survey of kids wear and menswear stores to study styles in vogue with details of features in fabric
• Prepare a spec sheet with POM table, tolerance, and ease calculation for the Unit-I basic bodice, sleeve, and trouser block
• Prepare a spec sheet with POM table, tolerance, ease calculation, and SA IN/OUT for one completed garment from Units III-VII
• Calculate fabric consumption and marker efficiency for one submitted garment and compare against RFFD-557 CAD-generated figures

Text Books

• Aldrich, W., Metric Pattern Cutting for Children's Wear and Babywear, Third edition, Blackwell Publishing, Om Books International, Delhi, 2007
• Aldrich, W., Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear, Fifth Edition, Wiley India Pvt. Ltd., Delhi, 2011
• Aldrich, W., Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear, Fourth Edition, Blackwell Publishing, Om Books International, Delhi, 2007
• Annette Fischer, Construction, AVA Publication, 2009
• Armstrong H. J., Pattern Making for Fashion Design, Fourth Edition, Dorling Kindersley India, 2011
• Bergh, R., Kids' Clothes Sew Easy, New Holland Publishers, UK, 2003
• Bray, Natalie, Dress Fitting, Om Book Services, 1999
• Khan, A. P., Men's Wear Pattern Making, Pankaj Publication International, Delhi, 2007

Reference Books

• Armstrong H. J., Draping for Apparel Design, Fairchild Publications, Inc., New York, 2008
• Bane, A., Creative Clothing Construction, Mc Graw-Hill Book, 1966
• Carr H., & Latham B., The Technology of Clothing Manufacture, 2nd edition, Blackwell Sc., 1994
• Clair, B. S., The Complete Book of Sewing Short Cut, Sterling Publication, 1981
• Crawford, C. A., A Guide to Fashion Sewing, Fairchild Publications, 2008
• Ireland, P. J., Fashion Design Illustration for Children, Cambridge University Press, 1979
• Ireland, P. J., Fashion Design Illustration for Men, M/s Om Book International, 1979
• Knowles, Lori A., Practical Guide to Patternmaking for Fashion Designers: Menswear, Bloomsbury Academic, 07-Sep-2005
• Kopp, E., et al., How to Draft Basic Patterns, 3rd Edition, Fairchild Publications, 1988
• Reader's Digest Association, New Complete Guide to Sewing: Step by Step Techniques for Making Clothes and Home Accessories, 2005
• Shoben, M. M. and Ward, J. P., Pattern Cutting and Making Up: The Professional Approach, CBS Publishers & Distributors, New Delhi, 1987